Since the strongest part of the carabiner carries the weight, D’s are the strongest shape. D (aka symmetric D)ĭ’s have a symmetrical shape that sets the rope closer to the spine, putting the load on the spine (versus sharing the load with the weaker gate side, like the oval). The bonus is, your gear rests squarely in the middle, so it's great for holding nuts, pulleys, and prusiks. Since the weaker gate shares the load with the spine, oval biners aren’t as strong as shapes that direct the load to the spine. When loaded, the pressure is shared equally on both sides of the ‘biner. The first carabiner shape to be mass produced. They are almost always locking and are generally heavier (than D/offset D's) because they need more material to gain back strength lost due to their shape. The wide top means they can hold a lot of gear. The Pear/HMS carabiner is used primarily for belaying and/or setting a powerpoint in an anchor. Used for top and bottom quickdraws, as racking carabiners, and lightweight lockers. When loaded, most of the weight is transferred to the spine of the carabiner making them stronger than most other shapes.
Offset D (aka Modified D)Ī modification of the standard D shape, the top of an offset D is much wider, allowing for a larger (and superior) gate opening. In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.Īlmost every carabiner you use will be non-locking offset D’s, with the exception of a Pear/HMS locker as your belay ‘biner.
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